Whether you’re in your 20s, 30s, 40s, or beyond, skin concerns will find their way to every complexion at one point or another - in fact, not even the most flawless of skin is immune to experiencing a blemish or two at the most inopportune of times. From dryness to dullness, fine lines to skin repair, there’s a whole host of concerns out there – and lucky for you, the experts at Clarins are here to reveal 5 must-know skingredients to help you solve them…
The first point of call for oily or blemish-prone skin? We can’t recommend BHAs enough.
“BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are oil-soluble acids, with salicylic acid being the most common. They penetrate deeper into the pores to exfoliate from within, making them ideal for oily or acne-prone skin,” explains Marie Schmid, Clarins skincare expert.
“BHAs unclog pores and reduce the look of inflammation, making them especially effective for treating blackheads, whiteheads, and mild acne,” she reveals. “BHAs are ideal because they dissolve excess sebum and clear out congested pores, reducing shine and preventing future breakouts.”
“Generally, mid-to-late teens (around age 16) is an appropriate time to introduce BHAs, especially for those dealing with acne or excess oil. AHAs can be introduced in the early/mid 20s for those looking to start addressing dullness, sun damage, or early signs of ageing.” Marie’s top tips? “Always start with lower concentrations and frequency to allow the skin to build tolerance.”
“Sensitive skin may react to both AHAs and BHAs with irritation, redness, or stinging. Mandelic acid (a gentler AHA) may be tolerated better. BHAs may be less irritating than AHAs, but both should be used with caution or under dermatological guidance.”
A damaged skin barrier can be difficult to repair, but there’s one savvy ingredient on the market that’s perfect for rebuilding.
“Ceramides are lipid (fat) molecules naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum). They make up over 50% of the skin’s composition and are essential for maintaining a strong, healthy skin barrier and retaining moisture.”
“All skin types and ages can benefit from using ceramides in their routine. Ceramides address several skin concerns by restoring and reinforcing the skin barrier, which is crucial for protecting against environmental stressors, pollutants and irritants.”
“Ceramides also help to seal in moisture, support elasticity and resilience (which can decline as natural ceramide levels decrease with age), and provide excellent recovery after exfoliation, retinoid use, or dermatological treatment.”
There’s no doubt you’ve heard of this hero hydrator, but how much do you really know about what hyaluronic acid is and does?
“Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a molecule that attracts and retains water. It’s naturally found in the skin helping to maintain moisture, plumpness, and elasticity.”
“Hyaluronic acid holds up to 1000 times its weight in water, replenishing dry or dehydrated skin. [It helps] well-hydrated skin to appear smoother and fuller, reducing the appearance of fine lines. Plus, by prepping the skin with hydration, HA can improve how other ingredients absorb.”
Marie’s top advice for incorporating hyaluronic acid into your routine?
“Vitamin C is an antioxidant used in skincare to protect, brighten, and rejuvenate the skin. The most common form is L-ascorbic acid,” shares Marie.
“Vitamin C boosts radiance by promoting healthy cell turnover and inhibiting melanin production, leading to a more even skin tone. It also supports collagen synthesis, which improves skin firmness and reduces the appearance of fine lines, dark spots, and sun spots.” Although equipped with many benefits for the skin, Vitamin C might not be the ingredient for everyone!
“Sensitive or reactive skin may experience tingling, redness, or irritation, especially with L-ascorbic acid at higher concentrations,” reveals Marie. “Around age 25-30 is an ideal time to start using vitamin C, as it's the age when antioxidant defence and collagen production begin to slow. Earlier use can be helpful for treating acne marks or uneven skin tone, but it’s not essential for very young, healthy skin.”
For normal skin types that can tolerate active ingredients, Marie recommends, “Start with 10-15% L-Ascorbic acid if your skin tolerates active ingredients. For sensitive skin or beginners to Vitamin C, 5-10% is gentler and less irritating. Over 20% […] can increase irritation without better results.”
And don’t forget – Vitamin C doesn’t pair perfectly with every ingredients! “AHAs and BHAs can lower skin pH further and increase irritation. Use at different times of day if needed (e.g. acids at night, Vitamin C in the morning).”
“Both retinol and vitamin C are potent actives, which can be too irritating when layered. Use on alternate nights unless directed otherwise.”
Powered by a vitamin C derivative, plus niacinamide and purple tea extract, this brightening serum makes it easy to achieve an even, radiant complexion. The clever formula helps to minimise the look of dark spots and blemish marks while giving skin an overall boost, delivering 5 key actions on brightness.
“Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and one of the most researched and effective skincare ingredients. It is a type of retinoid, which works by increasing cell turnover, support natural collagen production, and helping regulate oil production.”
When a new ingredient buzzword starts to do the rounds on social media, it can be easy to get swept up in the hype. But not everyone needs retinol – especially not younger or adolescent skin.
“Mid to late 20s (around 25) is a good starting point to prevent early signs of ageing,” shares Marie. “For beginners, choose a low strength retinol (0.1% to 0.3%) that’s effective yet gentle. Start with 2-3 nights per week, then increase the frequency gradually.” Lastly, if you are thinking of adding a retinol to your routine, make sure you don’t skip out on sun safety the next day!
“Retinol makes skin more sensitive to UV rays by thinning the top layer and increasing cell turnover. This increases the risk of sunburn and skin damage if you don’t use sunscreen. Always apply broad-spectrum SPF30 or higher every morning when using retinol, even on cloudy days.”